Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Roman Adventures and Getting to the Beach for 1 Euro




I have been to Roma about 8 times now and have just started to figure out how it all works. Roma is a big city... it is walkable but the traffic is rather dense and pretty scary. My husband, Jesse, and I take the students to Roma every summer. There are two different groups that have this excursion, so we go twice every summer. This time we wanted to extend our trip to see the beautiful beach side city of Sperlonga. On Friday, we boarded the train only to read in the newspaper that there would be a 'sciopero dei treni', train strike, from 9 pm on Saturday to 9 pm on Sunday. Knowing that the small city of Sperlonga would be impossible to travel back and forth from without a train, we had to cancel our reservation. Unfortunately that is Italy folks... it was lucky that we actually found out about the strike this time. Through the 80's they had regular unannounced strikes that really messed everyone up.

We stayed in the beautiful Hotel Fiamma, right around the block from Termini station, where the concierge gave us directions to a nice public beach just outside of Roma. Traveling in Roma is easy once you get the hang of it. Always ask the driver of the bus about the exact stop you desire. That way he knows you are exiting there and he will actually stop. The best thing to do is to buy a Biglietto BIG which is 4 Euros but is valid for all trams, buses, and metros for the entire day. It expires at midnight. We took the students to meet up with their private tour of Roma Antica with Enjoy Rome at the Piazza Navona. This is a great place to get a gelato and peruse through the art sold in the piazza. The Fountain of the Four Rivers found in the middle of Piazza Navona is a sight not to be missed.

Jesse and I have been to Roma so many times that we have really seen it all. The Colosseum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Antique Rome, etc. So, we decided to go back to the hotel and watch the Tour de France (they were in the Pyrenese this weekend). Around 6 pm we were ready to go for an Aperitivo. An aperitivo in Italy is a must-do. You have to find the right place and then you can start your dinner there. You pay for a drink and there is a buffet of food to eat. We went to our favorite part of town, Trastevere. This is where the night life is in Roma and the food is fantastic. We found the interesting Artu' Cafe'. This bar was a sight to be seen. Drinks were only 7 Euros and you could eat endlessly on the buffet of pasta and panini. I definitely recommend this place if you can find it.

Next we stopped at our favorite bar, Baccanale A Trastevere, to share a giant Mojito before going to our dinner. The seafood in this area is fantastic. When you walk down the main strip it is hard to pick the wrong restaurant! The problem is that some of the dishes are only served in twos. Meaning that if you want lobster pasta, there is a minimum of two people ordering it or you can't order it at all.

After dinner, during the summertime, there is a market along the Tevere (the Tiber) River. There is music, bars, and shops as well as fun carnival games. Make sure you get a drink in Trastevere to go and take it with you to the market. The drinks at the bars in the market are much more expensive. Getting to and from Trastevere can be very difficult. We have never figured out how to make this easier. All of the night life including the occasional street performer happens near Santa Maria in Trastevere. We have never found any public transport that gets you close. The closest is Castel San Angelo. There is a lot happening at night there too during certain times of the summer.

The next day Jesse and I decided to go to the beach. We each got a ticket for andata e ritorno (round trip) that cost 1 Euro each way. We were told to take the Metro to the Piramide stop where you get on an above ground tram that takes you along the seaside. Then we were told to get off at Lido di Ostia... this is a bad idea. We discovered that you should stay on the tram until the end stop, Cristoforo Colombo. Then, you take the #7 Mare bus up and down the seaside. We passed natural reserve and then it was public beach as far as the eye can see. Get ready for the bus ride, they drive fast, and they stop fast. I've ridden in a lot of buses in Italy, but never experienced something like this. The entire trip took about an hour and the beach is nice. It is definitely worth 1 Euro! Just remember, kite boarding is getting really big in Italy and these guys are everywhere. Be careful because you are not allowed to swim in the area marked off for them. You will see signs at the far ends of the beach.

Our train home was running 55 minutes late. There was some sort of technical issue. I recommend taking an IC (InterCity) or Eurostar train. The regional trains are almost always late.

Sibley Suggestions:

Roma is beautiful. You have to see it at least once in your lifetime. Getting to the beach is so easy and only costs 2 Euro to get there and back per person. Totally worth it! Always stay aware and in groups around the train station at night, it can be sketchy. Take a Taxi home from Trastevere. It doesn't cost much and trust me, after a fun night in Trastevere, the last thing you want to do is go looking for the night bus stop!

2 comments:

  1. Dory,
    It sounds like your doing great! I enjoy reading your blog and keeping up with your European travels. Keep it up!
    -Mary

    ReplyDelete
  2. HI Dory,
    For Santa Maria- have you ever tried taking the tram from Teatro Argentina? It is super quick, it takes you right over the bridge and has many stops in Trastevere- I think I used to get off the 2nd stop after the bridge for that area- once off the tram you just walk two blocks left and you will see the church. The Tram originates right in front of the bookstore on Corso Vittorio Emanuele 2... I think. Anyway, this blog is GREAT! -Susan

    ReplyDelete